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Alpine Butterfly Bend: The Alpine Butterfly Bend provides a secure method of joining two pieces of rope. It is based on the better known Alpine Butterfly Loop. This page provides links to three other very closely related bends: Ashley, Hunter's, and Zeppelin.
Alpine Butterfly or Linesman's Loop: The Alpine Butterfly provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. Strain can be applied from the loop to either end or between the two ends.
Klemheist: The Klemheist is a Slide and Grip (friction) knot related to the original Prusik knot but designed to take strain in only one direction. When loaded it grips the climbing rope; with the load released it can easily be slid up or down.
Blake's Hitch: Blake's hitch is a Slide and Grip (friction) Hitch designed to take strain in only one direction. It is used by arborists for ascent and descent. It has some tendency to loosen and slip.
The Bowline: The Bowline makes a secure loop in the end of a piece of rope. It can be used to secure a line to a ring or post. When there is no strain it can easily be undone.
One-Handed Bowline: The One-Handed Bowline is tied with one hand. It is identical to a normal bowline but useful if the other hand is occupied - or injured.
Figure 8 Double Loop ("Bunny Ears"): The Double Figure 8 Loop creates two loops in the middle of a rope. The two loops created are stable and resist slipping and changing size.
Chain Sinnet, Chain Stitch or Monkey Braid: The Chain sinnet converts a cord into a braid that has the appearance of a chain. It is used by climbers to store rope free of tangles, as a decoration, and to shorten and add bulk to a cord, e.g., for the end of a light pull.
Clove Hitch (End): The Clove Hitch can be made by passing the end round a bar. Made this way it is useful for attaching boat fenders or adjusting stage scenery. It is tied off after adjustment.
Distel Hitch: The Distel Hitch is a reliable Slide and Grip (friction) Hitch designed to take strain in only one direction. It is tied using a lanyard with a loop at each end secured to a carabiner with a Double Fisherman's bend.
Double Alpine Butterfly Loop: The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop provides two secure loops in the middle of a piece of rope. Strain can be applied from either loop to either end or between the two ends.
Double Fisherman's or Grapevine Bend: The Double Fisherman's provides a secure method for joining two ropes of similar size. The knot is relatively compact and therefore better than some alternatives when retrieving a climbing rope.
Flat Overhand Knot: The Flat Overhand Knot (aka The European Death Knot) joins to climbing ropes and reduces the risk that they will catch during rappelling.
Figure 8, or Flemish, Bend or Join: The Figure 8 Rope Join provides a secure, simple method for joining two ropes together. It is used in climbing, is fairly easy to undo, but creates a relatively bulky knot.
Figure 8 Follow: The Figure 8 Follow Through creates a Figure 8 loop. It is used when the Figure 8 Loop is being linked to a closed ring or eye, or secured round a bar.
Girth Hitch (Strap Hitch): The Girth Hitch is used to attach the loop of a webbing strap to your harness or another piece of webbing strapping. It is also known as the Lark's Head, the Cow Hitch, and the Lanyard Hitch. This page links to two other pages showing how to tie related knots.
Munter Mule Combination: The Munter Mule Combination provides the Munter hitch for controlled rappelling (abseiling) with the Mule addition to belay the Munter when required. The only equipment required is a locking carabiner.
Prusik Knot or Triple Sliding Hitch: The Prusik is a symmetrical Slide and Grip (friction) knot. The same number of turns lie above and below the loop. Load can be taken in either direction.
Zeppelin Bend The Zeppelin Bend is one of a family of knots based on interlocking overhand knots. It joins two ropes of roughly the same size.
Climbing Knots
These animated knots are for climbers, rescue workers, arborists, tower-climbers, and others who use rope in man-carrying applications.
Selection
This selection is based on consultation with, and feedback from, many experienced climbers.
Omissions
The Overhand Knot and the Figure 8 Knot, which both underlie other Climbing Knots, are included in the Basics Section.
Deaths
Climbing, caving, etc., are challenging and dangerous. The American Alpine Clubs' Statistical Tables for North America report over 30 deaths a year for the last 55 years. This website is about knots. It is no substitute for thorough instruction and expert supervision. Knots and anchoring techniques used for rappelling must be checked, checked again, and appropriate. For example, a quick-release hitch, e.g., a Highwayman's, must never be used for rappelling.
Climbing Ropes
A climbing rope is typically about 60 meters, or 200 feet, long. However, longer ropes are available, up to and in excess of 85 meters. Climbing ropes have changed greatly with the introduction of newer materials. Today's ropes are stronger, lighter, and thinner and come with different characteristics:
Static ropes are more durable, more resistant to abrasion, and lack elasticity. They should only be employed where shock loading never occurs: rapelling (abseiling), spelunking, or canyoning. They can be used to belay a climber. However, a lead climber should never employ a Static rope: in a fall, the rope lacks the required elasticity to minimize injury. Manufacturers typically use only two colors for the sheath.
Dynamic (Climbing) Ropes stretch under a shock load, absorb some of the shock force to protect the climber. They are designed to belay a lead climber or for top-roping. Manufacturers typically use three or more colors for the sheath to distinguish them from static ropes.
Links
To read more about climbing/caving ropes and their care go to the Outdoor Adventure Network Article on Climbing Rope; Indoor Climbing's Article on Rock Climbing Ropes; Rock Climbing's article on Climbing Ropes Explained; or Storage & Ganter's article Physics for Cavers: Ropes, Loads, and Energy. For details about testing rope, knots, and gear, go to Tom Moyer's Website.
Modern Alternatives
Descent devices such as Brake Bar Racks and "8" rings are kinder to the Static rope and easier to manage than a Munter Hitch. In addition, various devices are available to use instead of the Prusik Knot or the Klemheist. However, in an emergency, the knots described here are reliable, trusted alternatives which require only a locking carabiner.
Learn Your Knots: The Life They Save May Be Your Own
